Quick connects are aptly named

Bryce C

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because they fail quickly. I bought a few from a local supplier and noticed they are Hydro Force. Hopefully they last longer than my unnamed chy-na quick connects. Do stainless steel quick connects last a while longer? They are certainly way more expensive. Or is brass still solid if it is a good name brand make?

Thankfully it only took me 10 minutes to figure out which quick connect failed and I was able to get back up and running before the detergent dried up on the carpet. But I'd rather not be bothered so often. Seems like I replaced 3 or 4 failed quick connects over the last month.
 

hogjowl

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I’ve always bought my quick connects from my TM supplier up until a year or so ago. I started buying from another supplier who sells rebuild able QCs. Not sure yet if they’re good or not. They seem to me like they may not last as long but soon as I rebuild one I’ll be interested to see if I end up saving money or not.
 
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Mikey P

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because they fail quickly. I bought a few from a local supplier and noticed they are Hydro Force. Hopefully they last longer than my unnamed chy-na quick connects. Do stainless steel quick connects last a while longer? They are certainly way more expensive. Or is brass still solid if it is a good name brand make?

Thankfully it only took me 10 minutes to figure out which quick connect failed and I was able to get back up and running before the detergent dried up on the carpet. But I'd rather not be bothered so often. Seems like I replaced 3 or 4 failed quick connects over the last month.
Is it the male or the female or both?
 
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Bryce C

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I’ve always bought my quick connects from my TM supplier up until a year or so ago. I started buying from another supplier who sells rebuild able QCs. Not sure yet if they’re good or not. They seem to me like they may not last as long but soon as I rebuild one I’ll be interested to see if I end up saving money or not.

Is there a make printed on the rebuild-able QCs?

Is it the male or the female or both?

Mostly females...
 

Mikey P

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And is it the puppets that are failing or are they just leaking, if they're leaking it's your upper / outer o-ring in the female, and it's probably being damaged by the, for lack of a better term, foreskin area on the male.

O rings are easily replaced

Make sure that area is perfectly smooth with no gouges which happens when they get dragged or abused..


These are spiffy..

 
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Bryce C

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And is it the puppets that are failing or are they just leaking, if they're leaking it's your upper / outer o-ring in the female, and it's probably being damaged by the, for lack of a better term, foreskin area on the male.

O rings are easily replaced

Make sure that area is perfectly smooth with no gouges which happens when they get dragged or abused..


These are spiffy..


They aren't leaking, they just stop working. Nothing flows through them. The only QCs that ever get dragged are female. My wands all have male QCs.
 
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Bryce C

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In 40 years I've had them stop flowing just a handful of times.....

I don't know what I am missing. Unless I just got a batch of really crappy chinese ones when I first started and they were scattered across all my gear. Or I am missing something that should be obvious, but I am a goof ball.
 

Dwain Ray

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I’ve always bought my quick connects from my TM supplier up until a year or so ago. I started buying from another supplier who sells rebuild able QCs. Not sure yet if they’re good or not. They seem to me like they may not last as long but soon as I rebuild one I’ll be interested to see if I end up saving money or not.
I bought a couple of them wanders rebuildable quick connects problem with um is that yhey unscrew and come apart from pulse vibration. Fortunately he's aways away or id return umthru his window 😂🤣 went back to foster brand
 
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Dwain Ray

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because they fail quickly. I bought a few from a local supplier and noticed they are Hydro Force. Hopefully they last longer than my unnamed chy-na quick connects. Do stainless steel quick connects last a while longer? They are certainly way more expensive. Or is brass still solid if it is a good name brand make?

Thankfully it only took me 10 minutes to figure out which quick connect failed and I was able to get back up and running before the detergent dried up on the carpet. But I'd rather not be bothered so often. Seems like I replaced 3 or 4 failed quick connects over the last month.
Stay away from Chinese quick connects. Stick with brand name foster,parker, etc. As far as stainless goes i like stainless male ends but the females have a different seals than the brass . Along with 2 orings They also have a teflon ring ive had problems with um staying sealed. And taking price into consideration i went back to foster brass but i still have a few stainless males
 
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Bryce C

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Stay away from Chinese quick connects. Stick with brand name foster,parker, etc. As far as stainless goes i like stainless male ends but the females have a different seals than the brass . Along with 2 orings They also have a teflon ring ive had problems with um staying sealed. And taking price into consideration i went back to foster brass but i still have a few stainless males

That's whatsup. I'll check them out. Thanks Dwain!
 

Dwain Ray

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because they fail quickly. I bought a few from a local supplier and noticed they are Hydro Force. Hopefully they last longer than my unnamed chy-na quick connects. Do stainless steel quick connects last a while longer? They are certainly way more expensive. Or is brass still solid if it is a good name brand make?

Thankfully it only took me 10 minutes to figure out which quick connect failed and I was able to get back up and running before the detergent dried up on the carpet. But I'd rather not be bothered so often. Seems like I replaced 3 or 4 failed quick connects over the

And is it the puppets that are failing or are they just leaking, if they're leaking it's your upper / outer o-ring in the female, and it's probably being damaged by the, for lack of a better term, foreskin area on the male.

O rings are easily replaced

Make sure that area is perfectly smooth with no gouges which happens when they get dragged or abused..


These are spiffy..

Im willing to bet if you push the quick connect outa that plastic cover, you'll find its a foster FHK series H2B female quick connect. It'll be clearly engraved on the knurled slide lock. They're the best in my book

Screenshot_20250801_235203_Chrome.jpg
 
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Bryce C

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Sounds like a win to me. I'll definitely be grabbing these moving forward. Thanks a bunch Dwain.

Finally got some stainless teflon tape to get my chemical meter upgrade installed. Man, my truckmount is running strong and consistent lately since you helped me dial it in. I love this thing. What a power house. I only ever use it on low and medium.
 
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Cleanworks

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I mainly use Parker or Foster quick connects. I've had a lot of problems with the cheap Chinese ones with the males flaring and no longer fitting with the females as well as O-rings coming apart.
 
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Dwain Ray

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I mainly use Parker or Foster quick connects. I've had a lot of problems with the cheap Chinese ones with the males flaring and no longer fitting with the females as well as O-rings coming apart.
When the males flare out and no longer fit and they all do no matter what brand. ( its the pulsating hammering against the ball bearing locks) an easy fix is to gently grab the high edge with a pair of pliers or small channel locks and LIGHTLY LIGHTLY! run the jaws around it to remove some of the high metal and it'll fit and work again. This can be done several times before the bearing wear away enough metal that the connector eighter doesn't hold connected or the puppets no longer open enough. Remember your only tryin to mill down enough metal to facilitate an easy fit not grindit down to a nub. You dont have to remove the qc from equipment as long as you can get all the way around

20250802_112659.jpg 20250802_112951.jpg
 
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Cleanworks

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When the males flare out and no longer fit and they all do no matter what brand. ( its the pulsating hammering against the ball bearing locks) an easy fix is to gently grab the high edge with a pair of pliers or small channel locks and LIGHTLY LIGHTLY! run the jaws around it to remove some of the high metal and it'll fit and work again. This can be done several times before the bearing wear away enough metal that the connector eighter doesn't hold connected or the puppets no longer open enough. Remember your only tryin to mill down enough metal to facilitate an easy fit not grindit down to a nub. You dont have to remove the qc from equipment as long as you can get all the way around

View attachment 131973 View attachment 131974
Yes, I have done that but they tend to leak at times.
 

Dwain Ray

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Yes, I have done that but they tend to leak at times.
Leaking is a different problem with a different solution. Sticking is the ball bearing locks and is higher up on the male quick connect sealing has to do with the orings inside the female end for that replace the orings. Third problem with quick connects is flow that has to do with the poppet valves eighter Sticking or plugged up with debris. My suggestion is if you need orings to stop leaking. I strongly recommend that you order them from your supplier, rather than buying a generic Chinese assortment from somplace like harbor freight. And if you, like me order a bunch to have on hand cover/ coat spares with oring lube such as parker lube so they don't dry out and deteriorate while in storage. It is important that you don't use just any random grease as it will probably expand the oring rendering it useless when needed. Amazon, walmart.com, ace hardware all have a suitable product. Just make sure oring lubricant is in the name. Also use pointy picks to remove and dull or rounded tip picks to install as to not damage new ones durning installation

Screenshot_20250802_183631_Chrome.jpg Screenshot_20250802_183730_Walmart.jpg Screenshot_20250802_183949_Amazon Shopping.jpg Screenshot_20250802_185611_Chrome.jpg Screenshot_20250802_185536_Chrome.jpg Screenshot_20250802_183906_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
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they live

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Petroleum products cause some rubber orings to swell.
Not all rubber orings are the same.
Petroleum penetrates rubber making it larger.
 

Dwain Ray

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Petroleum products cause some rubber orings to swell.
Not all rubber orings are the same.
Petroleum penetrates rubber making it larger.
Precisely why i said don't use any random grease it will probably expand the oring rendering it useless . However expanding the statement to include all Petroleum products does make it more idiot proof . Im older and I keep forgetting that we live in an era in which vehicle owners manuals now have to include such statements as do not drink the fluid in batteries🥺

Screenshot_20250803_101919_Chrome.jpg
 
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Cleanworks

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Leaking is a different problem with a different solution. Sticking is the ball bearing locks and is higher up on the male quick connect sealing has to do with the orings inside the female end for that replace the orings. Third problem with quick connects is flow that has to do with the poppet valves eighter Sticking or plugged up with debris. My suggestion is if you need orings to stop leaking. I strongly recommend that you order them from your supplier, rather than buying a generic Chinese assortment from somplace like harbor freight. And if you, like me order a bunch to have on hand cover/ coat spares with oring lube such as parker lube so they don't dry out and deteriorate while in storage. It is important that you don't use just any random grease as it will probably expand the oring rendering it useless when needed. Amazon, walmart.com, ace hardware all have a suitable product. Just make sure oring lubricant is in the name. Also use pointy picks to remove and dull or rounded tip picks to install as to not damage new ones durning installation

View attachment 131978 View attachment 131979 View attachment 131981 View attachment 131982 View attachment 131983 View attachment 131980
Good advice. Thanks Dwain
 

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